Check out his site www.powerzed.com for more information on engine rebuilds and replacement reconditioned engines.

I took a lot of pictures of these wheels as there are sooooooo few i could find on the net.

To do this work we have used a local company http://www.rei-trim.com/ the service has been friendly as well as fast and reliable.  I will post some pictures of the interior as soon as I have some.

1. The first thing to do is to remove the old harness, thats quite simple after five minutes of trying to pull it through the bulkhead give up and cut it out!. Please remember to remove the ECU end and the plug slightly higher up behind the dashboard.
2. When it is out keep all the bits and make sure that your new harness is the same as the one that came out. If all the wires are the same you might want to spend some time and labal all the main connectors to make things a bit easier later?
3. Remove all the foam padding on the inside of the bulkhead hole, simply pull it off. Now you will see the reason that you could not pull the the old harness out. There is a metal plate that bolts over the harness from behind the dashboard. At this point you have two options. Take the whole dashboard out to remove the two 10mm nuts holding it on or (as we did) use a hammer and chissel and hit it until it starts to break up.  Take your time and slowly destroy it until you can grab parts with pliers bend them and pull the bits out the hole for the harness.
4. After you have all the main parts of the retaining bracket out stick your finger in there or an endoscope and have a look for sharp edges. We spent about another hour and managed to break a spanner in half and actually unbolt all the remains when we had most of the bracket out from the engine bay.
5. You can get the big connector all the way down but you will need to de pin the two small fat connectors as they will not fit. make sure you keep notes and pictures of what pins go where. Then protect it all in black tape or something similar so you dont damage it behind the dashboard on anything. We also taped a long piece of strong wire to the end.
6. Feed the long piece of wire you just taped to the end through the dash towards the ECU. Then feed in the main loom. It will all then pull through, remember to take care not to snag it up or force it as you could damage the wires. To get the big connector behind the bulk head there is a good chance that you will need to pull the bulkhead on your car about a bit. Dont worry to much about that as a rubber grommet goes in there from the harness after.

Happy days!!!

Note the blood stains on the bulkhead! no pain no gain….

1. Water bypass, if you have the engine out and Plenham off this is a great job to throw a whole load of pretty useless pipes away and simplify your engine. The major benefit here is you can remove all the crap making it simpler to remove your plenham in the future. I was a bit unsure as how to do it all at first but some great instructions on how to do it here. http://tech.aus300zx.com/Rear_Water_Hoses/NytWolf_waterhose_replacement.html

2. Carbon canister delete… mine was already done http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html

3. Cruise control delete…moine was already done

4. Hicas delete, now we had a lot of fun ripping all the pipes out the car doing this. I have to say a fuse had been pulled on my car to stop the Hicas but if you are after a real sleek look then you can rip a whole load of heavy stuff out here.

5. Brake and clutch booster pipework… a whole load of pipework sits just next to the brake master cylinder on a maual. You can rip the lot out and replace it with two pipes. Simply run the pipes and make sure that you put the one way valves in the lines. The rest of this stuff can go in the bin. Great if you need somewhere to relocate your power steering pump bottle to.?.

6. AIV delete, a good guide to removing it all here http://zclub.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=473354

7. PRVR delete, here is a great guide for that http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/138229.html

8. Clutch bleeder behind light, absolutely no need for this unsightly second bleed point behind the light. Quite simply you can remove it and all the connecting pipe work and aluminium shields all the way to the brake master cylinder. Simply replace it with a special braided hose from the zed centre for £20.  To bleed your slave cylinder its now easy just remove it hold it in the air at the top of the flexible pipe and bleed it.

9. My personal favourate! Air conditioning delete. The amount of pipes, crap and weight not to mention the air con rad just makes it a natural delete here in the UK. I mean its just not that hot here anyway and if you get that hot you should probably take the roof panels out and enjoy the three days of summer?.  Im so pleased I did this with my car as it really started to make things simpler and helped to give me that show lock under the hood.

10. Spare wheel and tools delete, how many of us have aftermarket wheels? I mean realistically… are you going to put that tiny space saver on with your big brake kit and 19s if you get a puncture?. Hell no you are just carrying it around for the sake of it. Throw it all out and stick a few cans of tyre weld in the boot, it will give you a better chance of getting home with a puncture and weighs next to nothing.

1. Remove the metal retaining bracket from the centre console there are only about four screws to do this. Then remove the two retaining screws on clips at the bottom, and then remove the fan direction assembly.

2. Take a junior hacksaw or saw of some kind and roughly cut out the centre shelf, it does not have to be tidy but just enough so the metal stereo securing bracket will slide in the hole.

3. insert the metal securing bracket into the hole in the centre console. You will notice that the hole is now far wider in a lot of places than the metal securing bracket.

4. now clip the stereo surround onto the securing bracket to get a rough idea of depth if you want a flush fit. Remove it so you dont get fiberglass all over it. Then while trying to maintain the position and depth use a screwdriver and push out some of the securing fixings into the centre surround cavity to hold it in place, you can support it if neccesary.

5. Now mix up some fiberglass and fiberglass all sides of the securing bracket into the facia hole, dont build it to high as remember this is to support the bracket in the hole but not give the final finnish. If you end up putting to much on you will need to sand it back!. It will naturally go through the securing bracket holes, simply use the plectrum that you applied it with to ensure it does not go into the inside of the bracket to far.

6. After the fiberglass is dry it will form a very very strong bond between the securing bracket and the centre console, use some 80 grit to rub any excess off from the inside of the bracket and from the front of the facia before you fill it.

7. Now this part is important to save hours of needless sanding to get a good fit! mask up completely the plastic surround bracket that goes around the stereo. Insert it into the secring bracket masked up. You can use this as a guide to fill against. To get a flush fit you should fill right up to the edges of the bracket and go right to the edges of the centre console. This will give you a near perfect fit when you complete the sanding. VERY VERY important make sure you gently pull it out before the filler goes hard and remove all the masking tape and excess filler from the plastic surround before it goes hard.

8. When the filler is dry you can now sand it using a block to make sure it is flat, dont do it by hand as it will distort the shape you want. Only sand the recess that the stereo face bracket made by hand, on the first fill it will look roughly right but you will undoubtadly need to fill it at least once more. Keep putting the front stereo into the recessed hole to check for a good snug fit, you want a hole of about 1mm the whole way around. After you have sanded it all you will be able to see any low spots as the block will not have been able to sand them.

9. You can now re fill any low spots as well as any of the recessed edging etc that needs more filler in it, once it is dry use 80 grit once agin to ensure all these are filled and the shape is good. Once you are happy with the shape use something like a 150 gri to go over all the work to remove some of the scratches and give a gental shape to all the edges and corners. When you have done this do the same thing with an 800 wet and dry to get all the scratches out of the fillerwork as well as the plastic facia.

10. Now apply four coats of GREY primer if you want to spray it black, the high build filler primer tends to react with a lot of paints so try to avoid it and use the common grey stuff. Apply 4 good coats, one an hour, on the last coat spray a mist of black spray paint over the the top to use as a guide coat. The aim here is not to paint the thing black just to speckle a coat of black all over it to use as a guide coat.

11. When the primer is completely dry use some 1200 wet and dry and start removing the guide coat, you can do this by hand if you want to. Basically it will show any scratches or imperfections and the aim here is to remove them by gently sanding the coats of primer back so they fill them. Try NOT to rub all the primer off as it will help give you a good finnish, some of the edges will rub back and that is fine. If you find that you need to rub a lot of it away to remove the imperfections then re apply and do step 10 and 11 again.

12. Now you can paint the facia in whatever colour you want, I choose matt black. It is very very important not to rush this and apply one good wet coat at a time then leave it to completely dry. I have used four coats on mine and done them over two days to make sure they were dry. Once dr your facia is ready to be built back up again. You should hae a perfectly countersunk stereo surround and a flush fitting unit.

I have made a another hole to fit my EDFC as well by using the same techniqes.